A simple cupcake with a hidden core of refreshing cucumber jam

There are few things more British than a cucumber sandwich. Simple and delicate (and delicious when made properly – think paper-thin cucumber, salty butter, soft white bread), this recipe of aristocratic origin is made all the better for being absolutely unnecessary. Traditionally served at tea-time (our way of justifying the indulgence of an additional mid-afternoon meal involving a lot of cake) they have next to no nutritional value, being probably the only sandwich in the world over which I wouldn’t shed a tear to see the crusts removed. But they are a delicious nonetheless, especially when accompanied by freshly-baked scones a glass of cold champagne.

Simple & sweet: cucumber jam

On Saturday we headed out into the Oxfordshire countryside to celebrate some friends’ engagement. We’d been invited for champagne afternoon tea and, while I knew there would be an enormous array of food on offer, I wanted to make an extra little something special for the happy couple to mark the day.

While cucumber works wonderfully in savoury sandwiches, it also has a beautiful sweetness that is all too often neglected. If you’ve ever drunk Hendricks gin or a cucumber-based cocktail, you’ll know what I mean. And as I thought about the tea and what I might make as a present, the idea of a cucumber sandwich-inspired cake started to take shape in my mind.

Champagne buttercream & cucumber jam

As is so often the case, my idea evolved over the next couple of weeks. With the classic combination of cucumber, butter and slightly sweet bread (or cake) as my starting point, I investigated ways in which I could play the flavours off against each other. Somewhere along the way I decided that including champagne was a must, then the idea developed into individual cupcakes and finally I found this, a recipe for cucumber jam.

If you’re inclined to dismiss cucumber jam as a bit too bonkers, hear me out for a minute. Think back to that cool, refreshing sweetness you can find in any cucumber. Imagine it magnified as the pulpy flesh reduces down, the flavour amplified by sweetness, the floral notes heightened by scraped vanilla seeds. Think of it once chilled and set, pale and grassy in colour and flecked with tiny specks of black. Imagine it spread on scones with lashings of cream, shiny green globules bursting in your mouth. Taste its sticky, syrupy sweetness spooned into the centre of a cupcake, seeping into the surrounding sponge.

Light, buttery sponge with a syrupy cucumber centre

It might not be for everyone, but if you like cucumber, the chances are you’ll like this jam. After that, the rest of the recipe is simple – light, buttery sponge, sugar syrup and basic buttercream made just a little more celebratory with a cheeky shot of champagne.

The recipe I’ve linked to makes more jam that you will need to fill your cupcakes, but I wouldn’t bother to reduce the quantities. I’ve got half a little pot sitting in the fridge and am planning to spread it on toast, stir it through yoghurt, melt it down into a syrupy glaze for a simple fruit tart or salad. Like the cucumber sandwich, it’s a little bit bizarre, but all the better for it.

Cupcakes ready for afternoon tea & celebration

Champagne & Cucumber Cupcakes
(makes approx. 24 cupcakes)

Ingredients:

For the cupcakes
200g unsalted butter, softened
200g caster sugar
Pinch salt
Seeds of 1/2 vanilla pod
4 medium eggs, lightly beaten
200g self-raising flour

For the syrup
100g caster sugar
100ml water
50ml champagne

For the filling
1 x quantity of cucumber jam (recipe here)

For the buttercream
200g unsalted butter, softened
500g icing sugar
50ml champagne

Method:

For the cupcakes
Preheat the oven to 175 degrees C. Line two 12-hole muffin tins with cupcake cases.

In an electric stand mixer, cream together the butter, sugar, salt and vanilla seeds until pale and fluffy. Alternatively use an electric hand-held whisk.

Add the eggs to the butter whilst whisking on medium speed, a little at a time. If the mixture starts to curdle, add a little flour and continue until all the egg is combined.

Sift in the flour and fold lightly in until just combined. Carefully divide the batter between the cupcake cases then bake for 12 – 15 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown and spring back lightly to the touch.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Using a melon baller (a teaspoon would do), scoop a small amount out the top of each cupcake.

For the syrup
Bring the sugar and water to the boil in a small saucepan, then simmer until all the sugar crystals have dissolved. Set aside to cool. Once cool, stir in the champagne then spoon over the tops of your cupcakes.

For the filling
Using a teaspoon, dollop a small amount of cucumber jam into the hole in the top of each cupcake.

For the buttercream
Beat the butter until light and fluffy. Gradually add the icing sugar, beating on high speed until well combined. Reduce the speed and add the champagne until completely incorporated. Check for flavour – you might want to add a little more.

Using a palette knife, spread a generous amount of icing over a cupcake then smooth the edges to create a slightly domed top.

These cupcakes are best kept at room temperature in an airtight container, although if it’s very hot you might want to pop them in the fridge for 10 minutes or so before serving.